Shepherd Farm and Sheepdog Commands and Terminology

More than a hundred definitions and descriptions of the language commands, words and terms, used by shepherds and farmers training and working sheepdogs

Some of the definitions below have links to our relevant sheepdog training tutorial videos. Paid membership is required for access to these videos.

Click a word in the index below to discover its meaning.

Stock Herding Terms

Confidence

Close photo of a sheepdog working very close to four sheep in a pen
Mel showing remarkable confidence holding sheep in a pen

One of the most important assets of a good sheepdog is confidence. The dog’s hunting instinct correctly tells it that being very close to livestock (the prey) is potentially dangerous. Sometimes the prey fights back! Farm animals, especially mothers protecting their offspring, can be stubborn, even aggressive, when confronted with dogs. But they quickly recognise when they’ve met their match. This is where a confident dog scores. A confident dog is usually respected and can move stock with ease. On the other hand, a timid dog will be quickly identified as such by the sheep, and find it difficult to manage stubborn or aggressive stock. The best dogs apply just enough pressure to control farm animals without being unduly aggressive. (Word list)

Distraction

Photo of a dog turning away from the sheep and looking for a distraction
Excellent example of a sheepdog sniffing around as a distraction

To avoid doing tasks they don’t like, dogs sometimes look around for a distraction such as an interesting scent to sniff. The dog might suddenly take a keen interest in an object on the ground which it previously ignored. If you call a dog to you but it doesn’t want to come, it might approach another nearby person instead. That’s a distraction. When working livestock, to avoid facing an animal it sees as a threat, the dog might approach a different animal even though it clearly knows which one was intended. Sometimes the dog appears unaware of the intended animal, as though it can’t see it. Suddenly deciding to defecate, urinate or yawn are also typical distractions. In such situations, staying close to the dog and giving it lots of encouragement will help improve its confidence. (Word list)

Driving

Close-up photo of a sheepdog driving three sheep through the arch of a fallen apple tree
Sheepdog Carew driving three sheep through the arch of a fallen tree

Not to be confused with droving (see below). When driving, the dog works on its own ahead of the handler, pushing the sheep or cattle away. Sometimes a drive can cover considerable distances. Driving has a great number of uses on the farm, and is an important part of sheepdog trials. Unfortunately, driving has a reputation for being difficult to teach. A dog’s natural reaction is to bring the stock towards the handler, rather than drive them away, so the dog’s string instinct is to get ahead of the sheep and bring them back. With patience and an understanding of why the dog finds driving difficult, training becomes simpler. It’s usually wise to teach the dog to Drove first, and then graduate to Driving. There are no fewer than three tutorials on the subject of Driving in our online tutorials library. (Word list)

Droving

Photo of Carew droving sheep to Dean Farm
Carew droving a flock of sheep at Dean Farm

Not to be confused with driving (above). Droving involves the dog working alongside or close to the handler, pushing the sheep or cattle ahead of them. Traditionally, professional drovers would herd cattle, sheep and other livestock many miles to market. Today, droving involves moving livestock down lanes, along tracks or through farm yards with the shepherd nearby. Droving is much easier to teach than driving, because the dog will be happy to work closely with the handler. The closer the dog is to the handler or shepherd, the more confident it will be. For this reason, it makes sense to teach the dog to Drove first, and then move on to driving. (Droving is included in our online Driving tutorials). (Word list)

Flanking / Casting

Photo of sheepdog Kay flanking around a group of sheep
Sheepdog Kay flanks around a group of sheep

Flanking or casting are terms for when the dog is moving around its cattle or sheep in a circular fashion. The dog should maintain a constant distance from the stock whilst flanking, so as not to alarm or panic them. When commanded, the dog should stop without moving closer to the stock. It’s also important the dog flanks equally well in both directions around the stock. A dog which flanks better in on direction than the other is known as one-sided. Our online training tutorials explain how to improve your dog’s flanks when working cattle, sheep, or other livestock. (Word list)

Flock work

Close up photo of a sheep and Cattle herding dog bringing a flock of sheep through a farm gate
Carew brings a flock of sheep through a gateway at Dean Farm

Working a large number (a whole flock) of sheep as opposed to a small bunch. Smaller bunches are recommended for basic training, and used in sheepdog trials. It’s usually far easier for the dog to control a small group of sheep. Flock work involves the dog working much larger numbers – sometimes several hundred. It often requires quite different skills to those used at trials or in training. See Flock instinct. Read about our Flock Work Tutorial. (Word list)

Gather

Photo of a sheep gather in Shropshire UK
Sometimes sheep need gathering from rugged places

Basically, a gather, involves the dog going out around the stock and bringing them to the handler. In practice, it usually refers to much larger operations on vast expanses of rugged or mountainous ground. Often on these occasions, groups of neighbouring farmers work together with several dogs and handlers moving the sheep to a designated place. (Word list)

Good stop

Close-up photo of Pip. A sheepdog with a great stop!
Pip stopped so quickly, she’s sometimes fell over!

A dog which stops immediately on command, is said to have ‘a good stop’. Unfortunately, in their efforts to achieve a good stop, some trainers are so hard on the dog that they undermine the its confidence. To avoid damaging the dog’s confidence, we prefer to work on the stop gradually. Our three Stopping the Dog tutorials take an in-depth look at how to get your dog to stop on command, without damaging its confidence. (Word list)

Grip / Gripping / Biting

Close up photo of a border collie sheepdog biting stubborn cattle to move them
Sheepdog Carew gripping stubborn cattle in order to move them

Gripping means the dog biting the stock. It’s often brought about by fear or excitement. Gripping can be a sign of lack of confidence shown by the dog. It’s not allowed in sheepdog trials – instant disqualification being the normal penalty. If the judge considers the sheep sufficiently awkward though, it’s sometimes acceptable for the dog to nip a difficult sheep. In cattle work, it’s often essential for the dog to nip the heels of the stock to get them to move in the required direction.
As with the good stop (above) especially with sheepdogs, many handlers try to completely eliminate any gripping. This can have a severely detrimental effect on the dog’s confidence. When dogs are faced with aggressive sheep (such as ewes with young lambs) they need some means of defending themselves. The sheep must be gathered-in for their own welfare, so the dog must be able to control them.
We prefer to put a command on the grip. We then discourage the dog from gripping unless we command it to. In our experience, dogs trained this way have far more confidence than dogs which have been totally forbidden to grip.
Management of the dog’s grip is covered in several of our online tutorials. Sometimes Nice is Not Enough and Training Max the Gripper (3 parts) are tutorials to help get your dog under control while maintaining its confidence. (Word list)

Heading

Photo of a sheepdog heading some sheep
Glen showing a great example of heading sheep

Heading is the term used when the dog gets ahead or in front of moving sheep or cattle to stop them, or change their direction. It usually comes naturally to sheepdogs, especially when stock are (or appear to be) escaping. Sometimes trainee farm dogs need a little encouragement before they will get to the head of stock. Most trainee sheepdogs will naturally try stop an animal escaping, but they require training before they’ll allow livestock to move away. (Word list)

Hedge runner

Photo showing the space created under a hedge by sheep eating all the foliage
Sheep will use any chance to seek refuge under a hedge like this

Farm animals naturally spread out across a field as they browse in search of the best grazing. In hot weather, they seek refuge in the shade of trees, or thick undergrowth if there is any. For this reason, a good dog will run right around the boundary of a field when it’s sent to gather the stock. That way, it should spot any animals which are hidden amongst the undergrowth. By contrast, at a sheepdog trial, a ‘pear shaped‘ outrun is preferred, and a ‘hedge-runner’ may be penalised by the judge. Because the sheep are held near the peg before each run, there’s no need for the dog to run wide. (Word list)

Hunting instinct

Very close photo of the face of a sheepdog down in the grass
Sheepdog Pip sneaking up on her prey!

All dogs are originally descended from hunting animals such as wolves. To a limited extent, domestication has suppressed the urge to hunt in most breeds, but it’s still strong in dogs used for herding sheep and other livestock. Over many centuries, shepherds and farmers have learned to combine the dog’s natural hunting instinct with its aptitude for being trained, into useful work. They’ve actively bred dogs to preserve these instincts. As possessors of a keen hunting instinct, dogs recognise that sometimes the ‘prey’ (in this case, the sheep) doesn’t want to be hunted, and will fight back. Sometimes with fatal results for the predator. As a result, trainee sheepdogs can be very wary of sheep when they first encounter them, particularly in a confined space. Huge excitement, and aggression towards the sheep, can result, so we need to get the dog under control very quickly and protect the livestock. See Flock instinct. We have training videos in our Tutorials Library to help get your dog under control around livestock. (Word list)

One-sided

Photo of a Bearded Collie sheepdog flanking around sheep
A good sheepdog flanks around stock in both directions

Just as humans can be left or right-handed, so sheepdogs often prefer to flank around stock in one direction or the other. It’s important to even-out this imbalance so that the dog works equally well in both directions. Sooner or later there will be a situation where the dog really must flank in a certain direction. Being ‘one sided’ is a habit caused by the dog feeling more confident when it works in its preferred direction. It’s a simple problem cured by working the dog on it’s ‘weaker’ side as often as possible, to improve it’s confidence. There is a catch though. Because this is a confidence problem, the trainer should allow the dog to flank in its preferred direction if the task is difficult, but make a point of sending the dog its ‘worst’ way whenever the job is easy. As with most training problems, the longer a one-sided dog is left uncorrected, the harder it will be to break the habit. (Word list)

Outrun

Photo of a sheepdog setting off on an outrun to gather sheep
Carew sets off on her outrun to gather the sheep in the distance

The outrun begins when a herding dog leaves the handler’s side and goes out around the stock in order to bring them back to the handler, or take them to some other place. If the dog were to run straight at the stock, it would probably frighten them further away, so ideally, the dog should run out wide enough to avoid stressing the stock. At the end of its outrun, the dog should be in a position to move all the sheep or cattle to the required place. There are 3 Outrun tutorials in our tutorials library. (Word list)

Pear-shaped outrun

Image showing the path a dog should take to achieve a pear-shaped outrun
Yellow path illustrating a sheepdog’s pear-shaped outrun

For regular farm work, shepherds usually prefer the dog to be what’s known as a ‘hedge-runner‘, meaning when the dog is sent on it’s outrun, it goes straight out to the hedge or fence on the side it’s sent towards. The dog then follows the hedge around the edge of the field until it’s gathered all the sheep together. In sheepdog trials however, judges prefer the dog to have a pear-shaped outrun. This is because at a sheepdog trial a small number of sheep are kept in one place before each run. Therefore the dog would be wasting time and energy if it were to run out wide for the whole outrun. It’s extremely important that the dog doesn’t run straight towards the sheep in a trial, or on a farm, and equally important that the outrun widens out, giving the sheep plenty of room by the end of it. (Word list)

Sorting race

Photo of a sheep sorting pen
Sheep waiting in the sorting pen

A sorting race is usually a long narrow area, designed to (ideally) allow animals through in single-file. At the end of the race is a sorting gate which can be operated to direct some animals into one holding pen, and others into another. The operation is made much easier by the race only allowing animals through in single-file. Sheep which are not used to walking through a race are likely to refuse at first, so rather than try to bludgeon the poor sheep through with dogs, it’s wise to familiarise them with a race beforehand. A good way to get sheep confident with races is to shut them in a yard or pen, where the only way out is through the race. You then go away and leave them to quietly find their own way out, through the race. (Check to see that they are all safely through though – just in case). (Word list)

Square flanks

Photo of sheepdog Fen demonstrating square flanks
Fen demonstrating what is meant by square flanks

If your dog is facing the stock when you command it to flank one way or the other, ideally it should turn through 90º and move around the stock at the same distance from them as it was when you gave the command. Many trainee dogs insist on moving closer to the stock when commanded to flank. This is a bad habit as can unsettle the stock. A dog with what’s known as “square flanks” is a joy to work.
Several of our online training tutorials explain how to improve your dog’s flanks when it works cattle, sheep, or other livestock. (Word list)

Wearing

Photo of sheepdog Carew wearing the sheep
Carew wearing back and forth behind sheep to keep them moving

Larger numbers of sheep or cattle can be inclined to split up when they’re being moved with one or more dogs. When this happens it’s necessary for the dogs to flank wider in order to keep the stock together. A good dog will learn to ‘wear’ back and forth in this way without being commanded. It helps the dog to keep good control of its stock.
In sheepdog trials, wearing can be useful if the sheep are stubborn, but it runs the risk of the sheep deviating from their line, thus losing points for the run. (Word list)

Yard work / Pushing up

Photo of sheep and cattle dog Carew pushing up sheep in the yard
Carew pushing up sheep in the yard at Dean Farm

Once the stock are inside a sorting yard or pen, often they will not go through the sorting race unless there’s a dog behind them, pushing them through. Although being ‘trapped’ in a confined space with the stock can be frightening at first, once dogs become confident in a yard, they usually go on to be highly skilled at it. A good dog will only use just enough force to get the stock through the race without undue stress. (Word list)

Yawning

Photo of a dog yawning
When a dog yawns like this, there’s something it’ not happy about

A pretty good sign that a dog isn’t happy about something, is yawning. If a dog yawns or licks its mouth, it probably doesn’t like what’s happening at the time. More signs of a dog’s displeasure can be seen in the distractions section. (Word list)


Stock Herding Commands

Away / Away to me

Graphic showing the direction of a dog travelling around sheep in the Away direction
Remember “A” is for Away

Move around (circle) the stock in an anti-clockwise direction (in a few areas it’s the opposite way)!
To avoid confusion, don’t think of the dog going off to its left or right towards the sheep, because when the dog is on the opposite side of the sheep from you, the dog’s left and right are the opposite way round to yours! It’s far less confusing if you imagine the group of sheep in terms of a clock-face lying in its back. Then remember the direction as clockwise or anti-clockwise. The first letter of each command can help, too: A is for Away – and Anti-Clockwise. When facing the sheep, the dog should turn squarely and keep at a constant distance from the stock as it casts or flanks around them. Our Learn Your Commands tutorial will help you to understand and remember which is which! (Word list)

Come bye

Graphic showing the direction of a dog travelling around sheep in the Come Bye direction
Remember “C” is for Come bye

Move around (circle) the stock in a clockwise direction (in a few areas it’s the opposite way)!
To avoid confusion, don’t think of the dog going off to its left or right towards the sheep, because when the dog is on the opposite side of the sheep from you, the dog’s left and right are the opposite way round to yours! It’s far less confusing if you imagine the group of sheep in terms of a clock-face lying in its back. Then remember the direction as clockwise or anti-clockwise.
The first letter of each command can help, too: C is for Come-Bye – and Clockwise. When facing the sheep, the dog should turn squarely and keep at a constant distance from the stock as it casts or flanks around them. Our Learn Your Commands tutorial will help you to understand and remember which is which! (Word list)

Get back / Go back / Get out

Often used when the dog is working too close and likely to cause stress to the stock. The command is used to send the dog further out to give the animals more room. Although it’s not wise to introduce too many commands during the early stages of the dog’s training, GET BACK can be extremely useful if taught as soon as the dog has basic control of its stock. We also use it when we’re teaching the dog to stay out of the way when we’re working on the sheep. (Word list)

In here

Used during shedding or separating some animals (usually sheep) away from the main group. When sufficient gap has been created between the required animals and the remaining stock, the handler uses “in here” to command the dog to move from its position on the opposite side of the stock, through the gap to separate them. The dog will then be expected to keep control of the required animals, prevent them from re-joining the main group and then take them away to their destination. Watch our Shedding tutorial video to learn more. (Word list)

Lie down / Stand / Stop

Confusing, this one! They all mean stop of course, but in practice they’re also used to slow the dog down! Rather than try to have several different commands for various speeds (Steady, Take Time) like gears in a car, many handlers prefer the dog to learn to regulate its speed according to the urgency in the handler’s voice. With time and experience, the dog will learn that a sharp command means the handler wants it to stop immediately, but when the command is soft it should just check its speed to allow the sheep or cattle to go further ahead. More confusing still, some handlers want the dog to lie on the floor when it stops, while others prefer the dog to stay on its feet. We have three in-depth Stopping The Dog tutorial videos, which will help you to stop your dog without damaging its confidence. (Word list)

Look back

The dog must leave the sheep it’s working, and turn around to look for more sheep. Regarded by many as advanced, this under-rated command is extremely useful for teaching a trainee dog to go back and collect some animals it’s left behind. We use it very early in a dog’s training, because we think it’s far better to teach the dog to go back for any sheep it’s left behind at an early stage. The dog will soon learn that it’s easier to bring all the sheep or cattle at the first attempt, rather than have to go back a second time. The “Look Back” is a feature of Double Gather sheepdog trials. Learn how to train your dog to ‘Look Back’ with our Sheepdog Training Tutorial – ‘Eve at the Pen. (Word list)

Steady / Take time

Some trainers prefer to have a separate command to slow the dog down rather than use a softer version of the Stop command. We prefer the latter. Our dogs quickly learn they should stop quickly if the command is hard, and to reduce their speed when the command is softer. Whichever method you use, the dog should slow down and put more distance between itself and the stock. An excellent sheepdog training tutorial for this is Backwards Is The Way Forward. (Word list)

That’ll do

A recall command which is widely used on farms whether the dog is working stock or not. The dog must stop what it’s doing and return directly to the handler. “That’ll do”, can also be of enormous help when training a dog to drive. As the dog veers off line because it desperately wants to fetch the stock back to you, it’s effectively getting farther and farther away from you. The dog’s far more likely to obey the ‘That’ll Do’ command than a flanking command to bring it back towards you, so we use ‘That’ll do’ as a sort of ‘cheat card’ to bring the dog closer, and therefore into a driving position behind the stock. Watch our three online Driving tutorials to learn a lot more about teaching a dog to drive stock. (Word list)

There

Used by some handlers to tell the dog it has completed the required flanking manoeuvre, and should turn squarely back towards the stock. We prefer to use the ‘Lie down‘ command, to avoid confusing the dog (and possibly the handler too) with too many commands. When a dog’s going round the sheep and you stop it, the dog’s natural reaction is to then turn towards the sheep, so using the command “there” has no real benefit. (Word list)

Walk-up / Get up

These commands require the dog to move straight towards the sheep or cattle in a calm, steady fashion without spooking or stressing them. Often used when the dog is hesitating, unsure, or perhaps lacking a little confidence. A calm ‘get up’ command reassures the dog that it’s OK to move closer to the stock. It should NOT be used in an aggressive way, to make the dog move closer. If the dog’s lacking confidence, shouting at it will only make it worse. (Word list)


Herding or Sheepdog Trial Sections

In the Tutorials Library there are two great online sheepdog trials tutorials to help you prepare yourself and your dog for sheepdog trials and competitions.

Sheepdog trial

A rural competition first recorded at Bala in north Wales in 1873. Sheepdog trials were designed to test the skill of sheepdogs and their handlers. Basically, sheep are let out of a pen at one end of a field, and the handler sends his dog away on an outrun to collect them, and take them around a set course. The course consists of the lift, fetch, drive, shed and pen sections. A judge awards points (or deducts them from a potential maximum score) to decide which dog / handler combination achieved the best run. In a trial the judge will choose the direction of the drive section but the handler can send their dog either left or right for the outrun. (Word list)

Outrun (Sheepdog trials)

Standing at ‘the post‘, the handler sends their dog to collect the sheep and start the run. The dog should go out in a pear shaped run, getting wider as it approaches the sheep. At the end of the outrun, the dog should top on the point of balance behind the sheep, close enough to gain control, but leaving enough room to avoid disturbing them. The dog should then approach the sheep steadily, keeping them under control as they begin to move towards the handler. This crucial part is called the lift. (Word list)

Lift (Sheepdog trials)

At the end of its outrun, the dog should be behind the sheep on the ‘Point of balance‘. The lift is when the sheep begin to move under the influence of the dog. It should be controlled and orderly. Once the sheep are moving towards the handler (who is still at the post) they are on the fetch section. (Word list)

Fetch (Sheepdog trials)

The dog brings the sheep down the course towards the handler, making sure all the sheep pass through the fetch gates. If one or more sheep fail go go through the gates, no retry is allowed, and the sheep must not pass back through the gates. The sheep must pass close behind the handler at the post, and they are then driven towards some more gates. As the sheep reach a point directly behind the post, the drive section of the trial begins. (Word list)

Drive (Sheepdog trials)

Having completed the fetch (above) and driven the sheep around behind the handler in the direction dictated by the course director or judge, the dog then drives the sheep away from the handler to the first drive gates. (Word list)

Crossdrive / Cross drive (Sheepdog trials)

After negotiating the first drive gates (above) the sheep are driven across the course to the second drive gates. The cross drive must be as straight and orderly as possible. Once again, no retries are allowed at any of the gates. The cross drive is more difficult than it seems. It can be difficult to judge the distance they should be away from you, in relation to the second drive gates. There is a points penalty for any deviation from a straight line. (Word list)

Shedding (Sheepdog trials)

After passing through the second drive gates (above) the sheep are turned towards the shedding ring where dog and handler sort out and separate a specified number of sheep. The handler shouldn’t leave the post until all the sheep are inside the shedding ring (about 40 yards in diameter). Until shedding is completed the sheep must stay within the ring, or points will be lost. Often, but not always, the judge will signal to the handler that the shed has been accepted, and the sheep must then be taken to the pen. We have a Shedding tutorial video as well as plenty of advice on shedding at a sheepdog trial, in the Sheepdog Trials tutorials. (Word list)

Pen / penning (Sheepdog trials)

The pen is a part of the sheepdog trials course where the sheep are driven into a small enclosure (sometimes the pen is a stock trailer but more usually it’s a fenced enclosure with a gate). The handler holds the rope to the pen gate and must continue to hold it until the sheep are inside the pen and the gate is closed. The handler is not allowed to touch the sheep or push them in to the pen using the gate. (Word list)

Single / singling (Sheepdog trials)

Singling is similar to shedding – but more difficult! At open trials, once penning is completed a single sheep may be required to be separated from the main group and driven away. This operation is carried out within the shedding ring, and the sheep must not leave the ring until one has been singled off. Watch the Shedding tutorial to learn more about ‘Singling’! (Word list)

Double gather (Sheepdog trials)

Double Gather is the name given to some of the bigger open trials, where the dog has to gather two bunches of sheep. First, the dog must collect a group of sheep in the usual manner, and bring them to a specified point on the trials course. The dog is then commanded to ‘Look back‘ for a second group of sheep which are waiting at another location on the course. The dog must bring the second group and unite them with the first batch, before continuing around the course with the combined group. (Word list)

Look back (Sheepdog trials)

The designated point at a double gather (above) type of sheepdog trial where the dog must abandon the sheep currently under its control and turn around to look for more sheep. An advanced ‘look back’ can be done in such a way as to indicate to the dog which direction the new sheep lie in.
Several of our online training tutorials show you how to teach your dog to go back for sheep or cattle. (Word list)


Herding or Sheepdog Trials Equipment

Drive gates

A pair of gates or hurdles – through which the dog should direct the sheep as part of the drive section in sheepdog trialling. There are normally two sets of drive gates on each course. (Word list)

Exhaust pen

Enclosure into which sheep are driven after each run at a sheep dog trial. If there are not enough sheep available for the number of competitors, the sheep are allowed to collect in the exhaust pen until there are a large number, and then they are taken back to the letting out pen and re-used in the trial. (Word list)

Fetch gates

A pair of gates or hurdles spaced a few metres apart, through which the dog brings the sheep during the fetch section at a sheepdog trial. The ‘fetch‘ normally follows the ‘lift‘. (Word list)

Release / Letting-out pen

This is the enclosure where sheep are kept at the far end of a trials field. A specified number of sheep (normally between three and five) are released just before a competitor’s run, and kept nearby at the peg. The trials competitor then sends his dog on its outrun to collect the bunch of sheep and take them around the course. (Word list)

Peg

Point to which the required number of sheep are brought before each run at a sheepdog trial. In more advanced sheepdog trials the sheep may not be visible to the dog or sometimes even the handler, at this stage. (Word list)

Pen

Enclosure into which the sheep must be driven during a sheepdog trial. Usually a temporary construction but sometimes a trailer. More recently, some trials have a “chute” arrangement, where the sheep merely pass through. This is much easier for handler and dog. The sheep are more willing to go into the chute as there’s no back in it, so they can see a way of escape. (Word list)

Post

Point at a sheepdog trial where the handler stands to send the dog off on its outrun. Once the dog leaves the handler’s side, the handler must not move away from the post until the dog has collected the sheep, taken them right around the drive section, and then brought them to the shedding ring (below). (Word list)

Shedding ring

A 40 yard diameter circle (usually marked-out) close to the post, where the shed and / or singling takes place before or after ‘penning‘. No sheep must leave the shedding ring until shedding or singling is completed. (Word list)


Herding or Sheepdog Trial Terms

In the Tutorials Library there are two great online sheepdog trials tutorials to help you prepare yourself and your dog for sheepdog trials and competitions.

Disqualified

The judge asked the competitor to leave the course because of a rule infringement such as the dog leaving the course, or biting the sheep. Any points accumulated by that competitor in that run will be lost. (Word list)

Left-hand drive

On completion of the fetch, the sheep must pass behind the handler in a clockwise direction and be driven towards the left hand drive gates. (Word list)

Right-hand drive

On completion of the fetch, the sheep must pass behind the handler in an anticlockwise direction and be driven towards the right hand drive gates. (Word list)

Retired

If a run goes really badly, most competitors will signal their intention to the judge, and leave the course without completing it. The run will score no points. It should be noted that even though you retire, you are normally expected to take your sheep to the exhaust pen. (Word list)

Timed out

Most sheep dog trials specify a time for each run. If a competitor cannot complete the course in the allocated time, they must leave the field but the run still earns points and counts towards the results. It’s quite possible to win a trial even though you were timed out. (Word list)


Types of Herding or Sheepdog Trials

In the Tutorials Library there are two great online sheepdog trials tutorials to help you prepare yourself and your dog for sheepdog trials and competitions.

International trial

To qualify for the ‘International’, dogs must be registered with the ISDS and qualify to become members of their UK national team (see below). The winner of the annual International Sheepdog Trial becomes the ‘ISDS Supreme Champion’. (Word list)

National trial

Run by the ISDS (International Sheep Dog Society) the ‘National’ is sheepdog trial in which dogs qualify to represent their country in the International Sheepdog Trials (above). To qualify, dogs must be ISDS registered and gain points by successfully competing in open trials (below) in England, Scotland Ireland and Wales. (Word list)

Novice trial

Open to less experienced dogs. Rules vary but normally for dogs which have not been placed in an open or won a novice trial. Will include outrun, lift, fetch, drive, shed and pen but not usually a single. ISDS registration is not required for dogs to compete in novice trials. (Word list)

Nursery trial

Nursery trials are intended for young, inexperienced dogs. Rules of entry vary but usually for dogs which have not been placed in any novice or open trial. A nursery sheepdog trial will typically include outrun, lift, fetch, drive, shed and pen. Surprisingly, nursery sheepdog trials courses often have an outrun of equal length to novice or open trials. Dogs do not have to be ISDS registered to compete. (Word list)

Open trial

A sheepdog trial in which entry is open to any competitor and dog – will include outrun, lift, fetch, drive, shed, pen and sometimes a single. Points awarded in open trials count towards qualification for National Sheepdog Trials. Dogs do not need to be registered with the ISDS to compete in open trials but unregistered dogs will not be awarded points towards qualification for National trials. (Word list)

World trial

Run every three years (the first was in 2002 at Bala in Wales) the ISDS World Sheepdog Trials are the pinnacle of sheepdog trials competitions. The best competitors from countries all over the world come together for a gruelling four days of intense competition. (Word list)


Herding or Sheepdog Terminology

Aggressive dog

Herding dogs use an ancient hunting instinct when they work sheep and they recognise that sometimes the ‘prey’ (the sheep) doesn’t want to be hunted, and will fight back. So dogs which are new to working sheep, often get very excited and even aggressive when they first work sheep. It’s usually only a confidence problem, and as long as the trainer helps to increase the dog’s confidence, the dog will normally settle down and work properly. There are several videos in our Tutorials Library to help increase your dog’s confidence and reduce its aggression with livestock. (Word list)

Eye

A good sheepdog needs what’s known as ‘eye’. This is a kind of powerful glare the dog can fix on cattle or sheep to make them move in the direction the handler wants. The trait is so strong in some dogs that they become fixated and difficult to move as they stare at the stock. This is known as “too much eye“. A confidence issue which is relatively easily corrected through good training. (Word list)

Fully trained dog

There is no such thing as a fully trained dog! Even the world champion sheepdog trials dog will have room for improvement at some skills, and will be learning all the time. We have yet to find a dog which is fully skilled in every aspect of stock work. For instance, good cattle dogs can often be much too aggressive with sheep but of course, there are a great number that are highly skilled in a good number of tasks. Every shepherd and sheep farmer has different requirements of their dogs, so it’s unwise to describe a dog as fully trained. (Word list)

Partly trained dog

A partly trained dog is more skilled than a started dog. Usually reliably working around sheep from a short to medium outrun (rather than splitting them up) and stopping reasonably well on command. The partly trained dog will not usually have experience of pen or yard work, but it will be a useful dog, and should learn more skills quickly. (Word list)

Point of balance

The point of balance is where the dog needs to be, to keep the stock in place, or move them as commanded by the handler. This is not necessarily directly behind the stock. Sheep or cattle often have a strong urge to go in a certain direction (sometimes they want to go towards other stock, or to a favourite spot) to avoid the attentions of a dog. In this case, the dog should stop in the correct position to prevent them from moving away. This is one of many reasons why sheepdog trials competitors should watch some of the runs which preceed their own, in order to gain some knowledge of how the stock will behave on that day. (Word list)

Powerful dog

A powerful or strong dog is a confident dog. One which works in a relaxed way and which commands instant respect from the stock. It will stand no nonsense. If they stop, it will just keep coming towards them in such a confident manner, the animals will continue on their way. The dog’s attitude and body language makes it clear to the stock that they have no choice. (Word list)

Started dog

A dog which has been taught the very basics of stock work. A started dog will usually run reliably around stock (rather than splitting them up) if sent to them from a short distance away. The started dog can be stopped (sometimes with a little difficulty) and taken away from the stock. (Word list)

Sticky / Too much eye

If a dog appears to become entranced – standing rooted to the spot, glaring at the stock and ignoring all commands, farmers and shepherds say the dog has “too much eye”. We dislike the term “too much eye” because it suggests the dog has some physical disability. ‘Freezing’, and glaring at the stock in this way is merely a symptom of the dog lacking confidence. The dog can be trained out of this habit, particularly if it’s young. ‘Sticky Dogs‘ is a video tutorial dealing specifically with dogs which are thought to have ‘too much eye’. (Word list)

Weak dog

A dog that’s commonly called ‘weak’ is simply a dog that has little confidence around stock. It may be extremely obedient and work well with light or co-operative animals but when faced with a difficult situation a dog that has little confidence will either stop and stare, grip or even turn away from the stock altogether. Sheep can interpret weakness in a dog surprisingly quickly and will take advantage of it. It is therefore af paramount importance to avoid putting a young dog in a position where it might be challenged or (even worse) attacked by sheep. The dog’s confidence can be improved with a little care. ‘Sometimes Nice is Not Enough‘, ‘Calm But Firm‘ and ‘The Dog’s Confidence‘ are three videos that will help you increase your dog’s confidence when working stock. (Word list)


Sheepdog Breeding

International Sheep Dog Society (ISDS)

Based at Bedford, England. Keepers of the ISDS Stud Book (Border Collie type dogs only). Despite it’s long-term refusal to recognise herding dog breeds other than the Border Collie, the International Sheep Dog Society appears to have become the recognised body of sheepdog trialling. (Word list)

Pedigree

The family tree of a dog – showing generations of ancestors. Pedigrees of ISDS dogs are copyright and must not be publicised without their permission. (Word list)

Registered dog

Dog whose birth has been registered with the ISDS. Normally, the parents must be registered before a puppy is eligible for registration. (Word list)

Stud book

Books which have been kept by the ISDS for many years – recording the ancestory, registration and breeding details of all ISDS registered sheepdogs. (Border Collie types only). (Word list)

Stud dog

Male dog – usually ISDS registered and from excellent working lines – used for breeding purposes as well as sheepdog trials and / or farm work. (Word list)


General

Electric fence

Fencing energised with high voltage (but low power and therefore harmless) electric current – often used to keep farm animals within an enclosed space. We don’t recommend electric fencing for sheep which are being used for training dogs during the early stages of the dog’s training.
1. Unless the dog is fully familiar with electric fences, it’s almost certain to touch the wire at some point. If the dog’s unlucky enough to get a shock at this time, it’s likely to panic and blame the sheep for its pain. This could ruin its confidence for a long time. The dog might even refuse to go near sheep.
2. Electric fencing is very useful for calm sheep, but those which are fleeing a runaway dog will almost certainly crash into the electric fence, which will then fall down, and the sheep will scatter. Not an ideal start for a dog’s training! It’s much wiser to build a training ring to start your dog off. (Word list)

Fell

Steep, rugged hill or mountain pasture – usually in the North of the UK (such as Cumbria) and traditionally populated with sheep. (Word list)

Hurdles / Panels

Often referred to in the USA as panels, hurdles are lightweight frames similar to a small gate which joined together, make a convenient and portable enclosure for containing sheep. (Word list)

Training ring

The training ring is a circular enclosure which will keep sheep together while a dog begins its training. The natural hunting instinct causes many trainee sheepdogs to be over-excited and even aggressive with the sheep when it’s first introduced to them. The sheep will invariably scatter and the training session descend into chaos. With training, time and experience close to sheep however, this initial excitement will soon reduce and the dog will become more controllable. For the early stages of training it’s wise to contain the sheep within an enclosure of 16 metres (17.5 yards) diameter. It makes controlling the dog much easier. The training ring can be made from many different materials, the most usual being sheep hurdles (panels in the USA) or post and wire fencing. It’s important to avoid having corners in the ring where the sheep can cluster to foil the dog. Note that if the training ring is much smaller that the recommended size above, the dog will feel trapped close to the sheep, and as a result, more aggressive towards them. If the ring is too large, the handler won’t be close enough to the action, to keep control. (The closer you are to the dog, the more control you have over it). Watch our three Training Ring tutorials. (Word list)


Sheep Terminology

In the Tutorials Library, in addition to the regular Sheepdog Training videos there’s a Sheep Tutorial to help you understand sheep behaviour and choose the best type of sheep for training.

Aggressive sheep

Sheep have a reputation for being passive creatures, and they usually are, but not always. Adult sheep can be extremely determined and even aggressive at times. A ewe with lambs for instance, wouldn’t think twice about killing a dog (which it sees as a predator). They’re tough enough to do it, too. If a dog is knocked down by a charging sheep, it could easily be killed. Sheep can also be feisty when cornered, or confronted by a dog which they suspect lacks confidence. The sheep’s first reaction to danger is to group tightly together in a flock. If this fails to deter the predator, they will try to run away, but if the predator traps them, some will try to fight their way out. (Word list)

Dogged sheep

After being used repeatedly for training sheepdogs, sheep become ‘dogged’ – meaning they are less likely to run away from the dog, and can be more difficult to control. Lightly dogged sheep are very useful as they stay calm and it’s easier for the trainee dog to keep them together. Extremely dogged sheep will either rush to the handler as soon as the dog is sent off to fetch them or others will bunch together tightly and be near impossible for the dog to move. Sometimes, they will crowd around the handler’s legs, becoming extremely difficult to work with (and painful because they hurt your legs and tread on your feet). (Word list)

Ewe

A ewe is a female sheep which is used for breeding purposes. (Word list)

Flighty / light sheep

Usually smaller breeds of free-running sheep from highland, hill or mountain farms. Flighty sheep are usually easy for a dog to move, but they can also be difficult to control. Sometimes they run away or scatter, with little or no provocation! Having said that, once flighty sheep get used to being worked with dogs (they settle down and become less panicky) they can be excellent for training sheepdogs because they move easily. They can be just as feisty as heavier breeds though, and will quickly defy or even attack a dog which they suspect lacks confidence. (Word list)

Flock instinct

Prey animals such as sheep which are hunted by predators (such as wolves or dogs) have developed powerful instincts to protect themselves from attack. As such, sheep have a strong desire to bunch together in large numbers whenever they sense danger. They bunch together very tightly with their rear ends outwards, in the hope their thick wool will protect them. If this fails to dissuade the predator though, the sheep will resort to scattering. The sheep’s flocking instinct is so strong, farmers and shepherds have been able to train dogs to control the sheep, but the dog needs to work calmly to avoid scattering the flock. See Flock work. (Word list)

Gimmer / Shearling

A young female sheep which has been sheared once. (Word list)

Heavy sheep

Stubborn sheep which can sometimes be difficult for a dog to move. They will even attack a dog and can have a disastrous effect on its confidence. Heavy sheep are normally large, lowland types which keep together well but can be very stubborn. Generally they are not recommended for training sheepdogs. (Word list)

Hog / Hogget / Teg

A young sheep (male or female) which has been weaned from its mother but has not yet been sheared. Once sheared, the female would become a gimmer. (Word list)

Ram / Tup

An adult male sheep, primarily used for breeding. They are sometimes used for training sheepdogs, although they’re not ideal. Tups tend to be big, strong, and stubborn. Some rams will happily attack a dog which is bothering them if they suspect it lacks confidence. (Word list)

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